• this clearly written crochet pattern creates an interesting 12 inch square
• as written there are four colours used; the colour changes at the beginning of each round – but it also looks superb worked in a single colour
• square requires a 4.5mm hook and approx 50g of 8 ply yarn (DK)
• please read through the assumed knowledge and special instructions before beginning
• US terminology used throughout
• available as a free download – download now

As it is a free pattern, it has not yet been tested or proofed.

If you happen to find any errors, please let me know… and as always, feel free to ask if you have any concerns about the pattern.

There are four sizes included: toddler, child, teen and adult.

US terminology used throughout.

click here to download free pattern now

click here to download free pattern now

click here to download free pattern now

click here to download free pattern now

It was brilliant. The boys rode around until they were exhausted, and I got one of my scarves done!

Mr Goldfish was out doing some Christmas shopping last night, so after the kids were in bed, I had the place to myself. Instead of fussing about with chores, I indulged in my crochet and got the second scarf completed!

I feel a bit cheeky calling this a pattern… more like instructions, really…

I’ve used a 5.0mm hook, and mostly 8ply yarn… although the red was a 12ply… the green and violet were 4ply, so I worked them with two strands held together… the indigo was even finer, so I held three strands of that together as I worked

basically, you can use whatever you like!

my yarn types were varied, too… the red is wool, the orange is acrylic, the yellow is wool, the green is cotton, the blue is something hairy, the indigo is a novelty ribbon yarn, and the violet is wool

again, this is YOUR scarf… so use whatever you like!

the scarf is worked sideways in sc (US)

just chain the length you want the scarf to be. I pop it around my neck to check the length. I usually like this type of scarf to sit an inch or two below my waist line… so I use that as a rough guide for my chain length… bearing in mind that there will be a tassel added also. Keep the chain loose for two reasons… 1. it is easier to work into the chain on your first row if they are not too tight, and 2. your scarf will tend to twist on itself if the chains are too tight

sc into the 2nd chain from hook, and every chain after that until you reach the end

leave a tail of a couple of inches and fasten off

turn work and add the next colour… continue working in rows of sc, leaving long tails at each end

I’ve worked 13 rows in total

red – orange – yellow – green – blue – indigo – violet – indigo – blue – green – yellow – orange – red

on the second scarf I worked the colours in reverse order

violet – indigo – blue – green – yellow – orange – red – orange – yellow – green – blue – indigo – violet

when the rows are completed, firmly knot each ‘tail’ to the one next to it… these will form the tassel… I chose to add a little extra to add some bulk, but it all comes down to personal preference

then I just trimmed the tails to an even length, and blocked the scarf lightly using a steam iron

Now I don’t mind paying for patterns… but in this particular instance I was NOT paying $7… I mean to say… IT’S JUST A TRIANGLE!!!!

I won’t be telling you how much yarn you will need… or what size hook to use. I can tell you that I used my crazy yarn and a 6.0mm hook for my shawl. When I worked up the shawl for my daughter, I dropped down to a 5.0mm hook, which I think I prefer. But this is YOUR shawl… use whatever YOU like.

a progress shot of my shawl… using 6.0mm hook

and my daughter’s shawl using a 5.0mm hook

THE PATTERN:

you are starting at the centre top of the shawl, and will be working back and forth in rows, turning your work as you go

start with an adjustable ring

row 1 – ch3, 2dc, ch2 (this forms the ‘point’) 3dc… tighten your ring… ch3 and turn

row 2 – 2dc into the first space between the dcs of the previous row, continue to dc into each space until you reach the ‘point’ of the shawl… 2dc, ch2, 2dc… then continue to dc into each space until you reach the end, working 3dc into the final space… ch3 and turn

repeat row 2 until you are happy with the size of your triangle! easy

since this is a free pattern, it has not been tested… if you find any errors, please let me know

there are progress shots below… I haven’t put any captions on them, but they should help you to visualise the pattern

Okay… I’ve reworked the ‘apple bag’ pattern… for those of you who do not have access to a 20.0mm hook

click here to see the original pattern

body of bag

using a 10mm hook, ch 24 (I have used jute)

dc into 3rd chain from hook [ch1, skip1, dc] to end of row, ch1… NOTE: YOU HAVE ONLY WORKED INTO EVERY SECOND CHAIN OF THE FOUNDATION ROW

turn work upside down and work back along the foundation chain… INSTEAD OF WORKING INTO THE FOUNDATION CHAIN, WORK ACROSS THE FOUNDATION AND IN BETWEEN EACH OF THE DC… [dc, ch1, skip1] to last space dc, ch1… you have now worked a complete round, but DO NOT JOIN

continue working [dc, ch1] into the ch spaces of the previous round

work 12 rounds

mark where you want the handles to be

work in pattern to the first marker, ch 24 for first handle

resume pattern between markers 2 and 3, ch 24 for 2nd handle

pattern to end.. then sc… then ss to finish off

trim

using a 4.0mm hook and DK yarn (I have used cotton)

work 2sc into the spaces between the dc of the final round

when you reach the handles, work 30sc into each

join and fasten at the end of the round

Firstly – it will hold THREE DOZEN medium size apples!

Secondly – it helps you remember the pattern… ONE DOZEN foundation chain… ONE DOZEN rounds of sc… ONE DOZEN chains for each handle… too easy!

I have used a 20mm crochet hook and worked this in coloured jute. For the trim I used a 4mm hook and some kitchen string. I have also worked this bag using rags, with good results… and plan to make one using a bulky cotton. Experiment a little with whatever you have access to.

don’t have access to a 20.0mm hook??? click here for the 10.0mm version

The instructions are simple, and I have a bunch of progress shots below.

body of bag… using 20mm hook and bulky yarn

• chain 12
• work sc into 2nd chain from hook, and every other chain until end
• turn work upside down, and work between each sc until you reach the other end (photos below will show you exactly what I mean)
• continue working in rounds (without joining) until you have completed 12 rounds in total
• mark where you want you handles to be
• sc to first marker, make 12 chain, sc from 2nd to 3rd marker, make 12 chain, 2sc, fasten off

trim… using 4mm hook and DK yarn

• work 2sc into the top of each stitch
• work 24sc into each handle

work 12 chain

sc row – yes mine looks like a dog’s breakfast, so don’t worry if yours looks a mess… it is the nature of using such a large hook

Turn your work upside down. Usually you would work into the underside of the chain (which I am pointing to here) BUT NOT IN THIS CASE!!!

To make the base more sturdy, I want you to work BETWEEN each sc… into the hole I am pointing to here

At the end of your first round, it should look something like this

Give your work a bit of a stretch, it will help define the stitches more, and you will be able to see where your hook needs to go next… that’s better, isn’t it?

Here we are at the half way mark

The spots for the handles are marked

Working the chain for the handle

Handle one complete

Body of bag is done. Yes, it looks small. Mine is about the size of a magazine. Don’t worry… it will stretch!

Bit blurry, but I’m working on the trim… 2sc into the top of each stitch

Working the sc into the handles

Oops… I’ve worked my 24sc, but I’m still not at the end of the handle! No need to panic, just stretch them along the handle to fit

That’s better

Not many apples at my place today… but that’s ONE DOZEN in there now… so you can see it will easily hold a lot more

I’ve added a celery and a 1kg bag of carrots… still plenty of room!

Just a close up of the stitches for you

Oh, and I tied a few beads onto some kitchen string to embellish the bag. They’re actually a bit annoying, and tend to get in the way a bit… but I couldn’t help myself!

Want to see just how easy it is to make one of these crochet bracelets?

As always, if you would like to see the photos in greater detail… click on them… and you will be able to enlarge them using flickr

Firstly you will need an old hook. Once it has been used to crochet wire with, it will never be quite the same again. I am using a 3.0mm hook, but the exact size is not critical.

This is the copper wire I reclaimed from the electrical cable (click here for the blog post detailing how I did this) It is a bit thicker than the crafting wire I used in the earlier projects. If you are looking to buy wire, I recommend a 28 gauge… it is pliable enough to work with, yet strong enough to resist breaking too easily. My original bracelet was crocheted using 28 gauge wire and a 2.0mm hook

Gather a variety of recycled beads and buttons… or whatever you plan to embellish with

Before starting to crochet, you will need to thread these items on to your wire. Always thread on more than you think you will need. If you are using recycled wire you will need beads with large enough holes to easily pass over the kinks in your wire.

Work a few chain stitches… the width you would like the bracelet to be.

Make sure you keep your stitches LOOSE, as the wire has no ‘give’

Work a single crochet into the second chain from the hook, then into every chain until the end. Try to ignore the fact that it looks ridiculous! It looks nothing like regular crochet – but that’s okay… start working back and forth in sc, working a turning chain at the end of each row.

Do not panic if you think it ‘looks wrong’… start chanting to yourself “embrace the squiggle… embrace the squiggle… embrace the squiggle”

Just keep going… it WILL be fine!

It can be really difficult to determine where EXACTLY your stitches are… don’t worry about it… just poke that hook in wherever you can fit it, and try and keep your stitch count consistent. Seriously – it doesn’t matter!

When you are ready to start adding beads, work a sc then slide a bead all the way up to your hook before working the next sc. Do this as many times as you like in the row.

You’ll notice that all the beads are settling to the BACK of your work.

Then when you turn for the next row… you will see them clearly.

ALWAYS ALTERNATE YOUR ROWS… a bead row is always followed by a plain sc row

REMEMBER if the beads are facing you, you are working a NON-BEAD row

Work until you are happy with the length.

I have joined this one by ’sewing’ the two ends together using the tails of wire. Obviously I am not actually using a needle, just poking the wire end though

To finish off I have threaded the wire through one of the beads on the bracelet, and then trimmed the wire

Next time I will share instructions for the knitted version!

This one is for those of you who love the idea of the one hour scarf, but don’t crochet.

(click here to see the original crochet version)

There’s only one problem… it takes two hours!

Well, it took me two hours… and I am an experienced knitter. However, even at two hours it is still a speedy option. My finished scarf is approximately 160cm x 9cm

I have used 8.0mm needles and three strands of yarn worked together

cast on 160 stitches

row 1 – slip 1, (K1, P1) to last stitch, K1

row 2 – slip 1, (P1, K1) to last stitch, P1

repeat these two rows, until work measures 9cm

cast off (loosely)

You might prefer to work flat using circular needles for this project, given the number of stitches you will be working with. My preference is for straight needles, but if you use them.. be prepared for your needles to be full up like these ones.

This is my 3-2-1 Curlicue Scarf, and if you can remember the name – you can remember the pattern.

work a row of loose chain as long as you want the scarf to be

row 1 – work 3 dc into each chain

row 2 – work 2 dc into each stitch

row 3 – work 1 sc into each stitch

it’s as easy as that 3-2-1 and you’re done!

I used a 6.0mm hook and 8ply/DK yarn. Then I used a novelty yarn for row 3 to provide some contrast. Experiment with whatever yarn you like!

These thick luxurious cables are designed to massage, de-stress and exfoliate. Gently cleanse your back without straining. This is the ultimate back washer. A perfect gift idea, or an indulgent addition to your own bathroom.

Knit this fabulous washer in cotton so that it is easy to care for. After use, you simply rinse and allow to air dry. It can also be machine washed and tumble dried.

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